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February is National Veterinary Dental Health Month! (Lexy Marcellus, RVT) PDF Print E-mail
Written by Brian Adam   
Wednesday, 01 February 2012 20:19

While it's definitely one of the busier months in the veterinary world, focusing on prevention will save ALL pet owners alot of money in the long run.

Plaque and tartar plagues animals, same as humans. Plaque is a gummy substance that forms on teeth within a few hours after a meal. Within 24-hours, it hardens into tartar.

Tartar is detrimental to your pet’s health, as it gives bacteria a place to live and multiply.  Research shows that bacteria from tartar are absorbed into the bloodstream, and deposited in various organs such as the heart and kidneys.  Tartar builds up along the gumline and as it enlarges, it pushes the gums away from the root of the teeth - causing them to loosen and fall out.

What can you do to prevent this?

After your pet’s teeth have been cleaned by your veterinary team, it’s a good idea to start home dental care, to help reduce build-up.  Feeding your dog/cat, or full grown puppy/kitten a veterinary-approved dental diet or a premium diet with scientifically-proven tartar-reducing ingredients is a good start.  These diets contain unique additives and specially-designed kibbles that interfere with plaque development.  By limiting plaque as it forms, tartar development is greatly diminished.

Also, brushing your pet’s teeth is another effective means of removing plaque before it turns into tartar.  It's recommended to use toothpaste made especially for pets.  Brushing should be done at least twice weekly (preferably daily); but we understand that not all pets will tolerate it. Special finger brushes make this task easier for you and your pet.  Regular human toothbrushes may also be used.

And GOOD NEWS: a daily oral rinse or additive to your pet’s water can help reduce the bacterial count in the mouth resulting in improved breath!  Ideally having your vet team perform a dental cleaning every six to twelve months, or at the first sign of tartar buildup is very beneficial for most animals. This will prevent damage to their gums and roots - giving BOTH of your, a reason to SMILE! smiley  Lexy

Allandale Veterinary Hospital's latest Newsletter outlines additional measures you can take, to ensure healthy teeth & gums for life:  According to the experts, aggressive chewing on hard objects, such as commercially available hooves, is a primary cause of broken teeth in dogs.  While resoptive lesions are the most common tooth disorder in domestic cats.  Studies show that approximately 28% of cats develop at least one of these painful lesions during their lifetime.  And an astounding 80% of dogs and 70% of cats show signs of oral disease by age 3.

How can I tell if your pet has a dental problem?

Bad breath is often a first indicator of dental disease.  Gently lift the lips and check for tartar, inflamed gums, or missing/broken teeth.  Cats may exhibit increased drooling.  Both cats & dogs can exhibit a reluctance to eat or play with toys.  'Chattering' of the teeth when trying to eat, lethargy, bleeding gums, eroded teeth, and cats failing to groom, are strong indications that should be investigated further.  Dental disease progresses in stages - but if caught early, you can prevent further damage and save as many teeth as possible.

How is the rest of the body affected by bad teeth?

Infected gums and teeth aren't just problematic to the mouth.  The heart, kidneys, intestinal tract, and joints may also be infected.  Tartar and any infected areas of the mouth, contain a multitude of bacteria than can 'seed' to other parts of the body.  With regular dental care, you can prevent some of these more serious side effects.  Here are Pet Country Estate's "TOP 5 do's and dont's" when it comes to protecting their 'Pearly Whites!'

1. Don't presume your pet will inform you his teeth hurt. Some people think the key indicator of tooth pain is when their pet stops eating.  "Their natural instinct to eat for survival is very strong, so pets will often continue to eat despite intense oral pain," says Dr. Doug Roberts, a Kentville, N.S., veterinarian and President of the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association. It's better to be pro-active and schedule annual vet check-ups, during which your pet's teeth & gums can be examined.

2. Do brush your pet's teeth.  We know: not fun.  But there are ways to ease into this daily care regimen.  Start young, if possible, and use plenty of positive reinforcement. "We can also train our older pet to accept brushing of their teeth if we introduce it gradually, gently, and again with lots of positive reinforcement," says Dr. Roberts. Ask your vet to show you how to get the job done.

3. Don't think pet dental care is a luxury.  Oral care products for cats and dogs are now widely available – and inexpensive to boot. You can find brushes and other cleaning devices, plus feline and canine toothpastes at your vet's office, pet boutiques and at pet care chains, all for under $10.

4. Do feed tooth-friendly foods.  Crunchy food – particularly special "dental diet" kibble formula – is better for your pet's teeth than canned food, which may promote plaque and tartar buildup. Some pets however, do require a canned-food diet for medical reasons.  If this is the case for your cat or dog, stick with the vet-recommended diet.  Remember, crunchy food is just part of the healthy-mouth equation, it won't keep plaque/tartar at bay on its own.

5. Don't give your pet candy, ever!  Pets should never get candy of any kind.  Like chocolate, sorbitol-sweetened candy is toxic to dogs.  (And regular candy is as bad for Rex’s teeth as yours!)  Even "good" treats from the vet clinic should comprise no more than 10 per cent of your pet's diet.

Last Updated on Thursday, 02 February 2012 07:32
 
Nail Care/Proper Pedicures - by Lexy Marcellus, (RVT) PDF Print E-mail
Written by Brian Adam   
Tuesday, 03 January 2012 16:04

One of Winter's most common problems, is broken nails.  The reason we see it so often?  Because most dogs enjoying the weather, break them on pieces of ice. Best thing to do?  Keep their nails trimmed on a regular basis.

As a rule, their nails should be trimmed when they touch the ground (as soon as you hear that ‘clicking’ noise on tile ceramic or hardwood floors).  Depending on how often they walk on sidewalks or dig holes, they may not need to be trimmed at all.  It's always a good idea to check them every 2-4 weeks to see if they need to be trimmed.  And, pay close attention to the dewclaw if your dog has them (that's the thumb-like nail on the inside part of your dog’s paw.)

What to use?

There are two different types of dog nail trimmers: the scissor type and the guillotine type.  They both work equally well, so you can use whichever you find most comfortable.  You'll want to make sure you buy the correct size for your dog.  ie. don’t use tiny trimmers on a Great Dane.

If they find the trimmers intolerable, you may want to try something different - like a grinding tool to file down the nail.  The disadvantage to these tools?  They make noise and some dogs don’t enjoy the vibrations or sensation at all - so it will take longer to file them.  On the other hand it offers more control with less pain.

How to start

Start by playing and massaging your dog’s feet right from a young age - offering treats and praise when behaving nicely.  This whole exercise needs to be very positive.  If your dog is a little touchier, it may take up to a couple of weeks for them to be comfortable with the exercise.  If it's your first time, just clip one or two nails a day, following up with a treat/praise and/or their favorite game.  You could distract your puppy with a really crunchy treat, and trim the nails while they're busy with it. Remember, it's OK to use lots of praise and treats to continue to make this a positive experience.

Preparation for pedicure

Before beginning your pup’s pedicure, tire your dog out with a long walk or vigorous exercise, and enlist some help to hold her.  Once your dog is relaxed, grab your gear: cutting device, treats, and styptic powder (which I'll explain in a moment).  You are now ready to begin.

Now, to trim

You'll want to take your dog’s paw in your hand, holding it firmly, but gently.  Showering your dog with calm praises & treats, take your trimmers so that you are cutting from top to bottom, not side to side.  Insert a very small length of nail through the trimmer’s opening.  Avoid nicking the quick (the pink fleshy part of the nail that contains nerves and blood vessels) just taking the pointed tips off.  With black nails, it’s harder to see where the quick is, so if you have a flashlight or penlight available, shine it through the nail to make it easier to pick out the quick.  You'll want to cut a little bit of nail with each pass until you can see the beginning of a circle - still nail-coloured - appear on the cut surface.  The circle indicates that you are nearing the quick, so it’s time to stop that nail and move on to the next.

In case of an accident

If you do manage to hit the quick, your dog will probably yelp and may even struggle.  It's a good time to end the session.  You'll want to apply styptic powder to the bleeding nail tip.  Apply a little pressure as you press on the powder into the wound to make sure it sticks.  The powder will help clot the wound. If bleeding continues for more than a few minutes, please alert your veterinarian team, who can then check for clotting disorders.

Difficult dogs

Some dogs show fearful or aggressive behavior when faced with nail trimming.  Watch carefully for signs of distress such as panting, drooling, trembling, whining, freezing, cowering, tail-tucking, growling, snarling or snapping.  Even with the most patient and gradual of introductions, some dogs will not be able to get over their terror.  If your dog falls into this category, do not force them to submit.  See if your veterinarian or professional groomer has better luck at getting the job done.  And as always, if you need any further guidance, your veterinary team is always there to help you. wink Lexy

Last Updated on Tuesday, 03 January 2012 21:38
 
Holiday Health Hazards for Pets - by Lexy Marcellus, (RVT) PDF Print E-mail
Written by Brian Adam   
Thursday, 01 December 2011 21:12

The Holidays are upon us!  For most it means: visits with family & friends, enjoying delicious meals, and all the wonderful Christmas decorations.  It also means: a dramatic increase in unwanted & untimely Vet Visits! 

The most common reason Pet Traumas & toxicities occur?  Ingested FOODS, PLANTS & ORNAMENTS!  With that in mind, here are some things every Pet Owner should know, to ensure everyone enjoys the Season:

Let's start with "FOODS"

ALCOHOL can be found in things other than the obvious beverages - such as baker’s yeast and antifreeze. Canines and Cats are attracted to the smell & taste. Cats are more sensitive to its' toxic qualities, and if not treated by your vet clinic, Alcohol Poisoning can result in death.  The faster the treatment, the better the outcome.

CHOCOLATE contains theobromine and caffeine - both of which are toxic to pets.  The amount of this chemical in chocolate, depends on: the total concentration of cocoa, how much is eaten, and the size of the animal.  In mild cases, chocolate toxicity symptoms include: restlessness & hyperactivity. While vomiting, diarrhea and seizures may also occur. 

If you suspect or KNOW your pet has ingested Alcohol or Chocolate, it's imperative you contact your veterinary team immediately.

ONIONS, GARLIC & CHIVES: In fresh or powdered form, ALL 3 are toxic to dogs & cats.  The toxin attacks the red blood cells, may lead to weakness, vomiting, diarrhea, trouble breathing, and pale or blue mucous membranes.

COOKED POULTRY BONES become brittle, and if eaten will splinter, possibly getting lodged in your pet's throat or puncture the intestinal tract.

FATTY FOODS are NEVER a good thing to feed them.  This could cause an upset stomach & may lead to pancreatitis.  If left untreated, may cause death.

Remember what may be healthy to you, may not be healthy for your pets.  Feeding your dog(s)/cat(s) their own food will keep them healthy & happy right through the New Year!


"PLANTS"

The traditional Pointsettia - although not believed to be as dangerous - can cause upset stomachs and mouth irritation.

Mistletoe on the other hand is VERY TOXIC to your pets, and will attack the cardiovascular system and gastrointestinal area.

Holly, another holiday favourite is also toxic - and causes vomiting, nausea, diarrhea, and lethargy.

It’s always a good idea to keep these types of plants, out of your pet's reach.  And as always, consult your veterinarian, if you think any of these otherwise festive plants, have been ingested.

 


"ORNAMENTS & DECORATIONS"

Animals love to 'taste' their environment.  This can pose a problem when your pets enjoy things, their bodies cannot digest.  Broken ornaments & hooks, tinsel and electrical cords are very common things they may be interested in. Keeping these temptations out-of-reach or monitoring them around all the trimmings, will help alleviate this issue.

Christmas Trees have additional hazards especially when your pets decide it would be fun to climb.  Using fishing line or string to tie off the tree is recommended to prevent further mess for you, and provides a safer environment for your pet.  'Real' Christmas trees sometimes come with instructions to add fertilizer to the water.  Fertilizer can be toxic, so remember to cover it at all times - so your pets don’t have access to it.

Candles and Fireplaces are often used over the Holidays.  Cats love the flickering lights!  So much so, they risk burning themselves or knocking over candles - which could start a fire house fire.  Do not leave candles unattended, especially where pets & children are concerned. 

Scented candles can also irritate the respiratory systems of cats, dogs and birds.

The Holidays are a great time to celebrate with family & friends.  Older or nervous pets sometimes find this month stressful.  A 'quiet area' they can retreat to, is always appreciated and makes things much more enjoyable for them. During this busy time, it would be best to keep your pets’ routines as normal as possible.  Exercise, a normal diet and attention are most important to keep your animals as comfortable as possible, and stress-free!

Your veterinary team is always just a phone call away, should you have any questions.  Have a MEOWY CHRISTMAS & a WOOFerful New Year! wink  Lexy

               

Last Updated on Thursday, 01 December 2011 22:18
 
Caring for Senior Dogs - by Lexy Marcellus, Registered Vet Technician (RVT) PDF Print E-mail
Written by Brian Adam   
Saturday, 05 November 2011 07:51

Beginning at the age of 7 (5 years for giant breeds) your pet enters the Senior years - often developing diseases similar to their human counterparts. These conditions can sometimes go unnoticed in the early stages. It's important to note some of the changes associated with aging may not seem significant, but even minor ones such as behaviour issues, may be indicative of underlying medical problems.

What to look for:

Some signs may escape your observation or require sophisticated testing in order to be detected.  Other are more apparent in the pet’s normal environment.  To help your pet avoid disease, it’s good to understand the signs associated with common conditions in older pets.

Signs of kidney disease: Loss of appetite, changes in thirst and urination (increased/decreased), poor hair coat, vomiting, sore mouth, diarrhea.

Heart disease: Coughing, difficulty breathing, shortness of breath, reduced exercise tolerance, weightloss or gain

Dental Health Deterioration: bad breath, redness in gums, swollen gums, mass (lump)

Joint problems: lameness, reluctance to walk or exercise, decreased appetite, discomfort and/or pain

Signs of age-related behavioural disorder: Fails to recognize familiar people or places, wanders or paces, no longer greets family members, sleeps more during the day or less at night, doesn’t 'ask' to go outside/frequent accidents. 

Here are some of our most-frequently asked questions:

If I notice these signs what should I do?

Regardless of age, every animal should visit their veterinarian once a year for vaccines and yearly health checks.  Keep a list of any problems you may've noticed. From there, your veterinarian will begin with a complete veterinary exam, look at your pet’s past illnesses & tests.  Your veterinary team may offer diagnostics to rule-out organ diseases and hormonal imbalances.  That could include blood work, urinalysis, radiographs, ultrasound, spinal tests, brain scans, or perhaps a referral to a specialist.

My pet is quite old. Is there a point in doing these tests? What can be done?

Unfortunately many pet owners do not even discuss behaviour changes; as they may feel these are a normal part of aging and assume nothing can be done.  This is far from truth. Many problems have an underlying medical cause that can be treated or controlled with medication, diet or perhaps surgery.

Suggestions? 

Keeping vaccines current prevents unwanted diseases from appearing.  Your vet will determine a proper vaccine schedule for your senior’s lifestyle. Most will receive most vaccines every 2-3 years.  Brushing your pet frequently to prevent matting. This can contribute to skin infections and may hide skin tumors.  Clip toenails as needed to prevent overgrowth.  Long toenails may result in pain or accelerated and intensify arthritic changes.

Keep plenty of fresh water available and monitor consumption. Increases in water consumption or urination are often associated with different diseases. Keep other pets from preventing your senior pet access to food and water.

As Fall turns into Winter, cooler temperatures affect our beloved seniors more in joints and regulating their own body temperature. It's important to keep them inside most of the time to prevent this.  Regular weigh-ins, roughly every 2 months, will help monitor any weight gain or loss. Changes in weight can also be indicator of problems.

The best way to keep pets Young-at-Heart?

Preventative medicine!  When it comes to our animals, there's no such thing as a silly question!  You can ask your Veterinary team anything.  And THAT'S great peace-of-mind, for both you and your pets.wink  Lexy

Last Updated on Saturday, 05 November 2011 08:19
 
Hypothyroidism - by Lexy Marcellus, Registered Veterinary Technician (RVT) PDF Print E-mail
Written by Brian Adam   
Monday, 03 October 2011 20:02

Hypothyroidism is a condition where the thyroid gland is not releasing enough thyroxine in the blood.  One of the most common hormonal problems in dogs & cats.  As one of the body's most important glands, the thyroid is in the neck near the trachea or windpipe.  It has 2 lobes, one on each side of the trachea & is controlled by the pituitary gland.

The thyroid gland regulates the body’s metabolic rate. If the thyroid is overactive (hyperthyroidism), the body’s metabolism is elevated. If it is underactive (hypothyroidism), the metabolism slows down.

What causes hypothyroidism?

The most common cause is lymphocytic thyroiditis and is thought to be an immune-mediated disease. This means the immune system decides that the thyroid is abnormal or foreign and attacks it; although it's unclear as to why.  For those with idiopathic thyroid gland atrophy, normal thyroid tissue is replaced by fat tissue. This condition is also poorly understood.

These two causes of hypothyroidism account for more than 95% of the cases in dogs. The other 5% are due to rare diseases, including cancer of the thyroid gland.

What are the clinical signs?

-          Weight gain without an increase in appetite

-          Lethargy and lack of desire to exercise,

-          Cold intolerance (gets cold easily)

-          Very thin to nearly bald hair

-          Increased dark pigmentation in the skin

-          Increased susceptibility and occurrence of skin and ear infections

-          Failure to re-grow hair after clipping or shaving

-          High blood cholesterol

-          Infertility, lack of heat cycles, and abortions in females

-          Fat deposits in corneas of the eyes

-          “Dry eye” or Keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS) due to lack of proper tear production

How is it diagnosed?

Thyroxine, or T4 as it's commonly called, is a natural hormone produced by the thyroid.  Circulating T4 is converted to T3 in body tissues & organs, and T3 acts like a furnace thermostat one's metabolism rate.

Your veterinarian will suggest testing a blood sample for the T4, T3, free T4 (separation of T4 from its carrier proteins), and THS (thyroid stimulating hormone). If there is a decrease in production of those hormones, the dog has hypothyroidism.

How is it treated?

Hypothyroidism is treatable but not curable.  It's treated with an oral medication of thyroid replacement hormone.  This drug must be given for the rest of the dog’s life.  Regular testing of the levels of T4 is recommended every 6 months to 1 year to make sure your dog is well regulated.   If you suspect your dog may have this condition, consult with your veterinarian team for further information and testing to keep your dog healthy and happy. smiley Lexy

Last Updated on Saturday, 05 November 2011 07:30
 




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